Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.